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The Problem: Zipping up the side curtains is like driving 200 miles of bad road. There's a lot of stopping and starting.
The Cause: Salt and other airborne or waterborne debris tends to clog the zippers.
The Fix: A spray of silicone on the zippers should make a world of difference.
The Problem: Your VHF radio is plagued by static; not so bad it messes up reception, but enough to where no one wants to talk to you.
The Cause: No need for a new radio. Check your antenna connector. It may be plugged up with salt.
The Fix: Clean the connector, spray it with WD-40 or CRC's QD Electronics Cleaner, and see if the reception improves. It's a good idea to go through this process at least once a season.
The Problem: When you hit the starter button, the engine's solenoid clicks but the engine doesn't crank over. The other electrical gear onboard works fine, so you're sure the battery is okay.
The Cause: One of the batteries probably has a corroded terminal.
The Fix: Disconnect both connectors and clean the terminals with a battery post cleaning tool or a wire brush. (Do this monthly during the season.) Leave the battery terminals disconnected for now. Also check the engine end of these cables. Remove the ground connector from the engine block and the hot lead at the starter solenoid. Clean the terminals. After remaking these connections, spray a generous coat of CRC's Marine Electronics Grease.
The Problem: The hydraulic steering seems mushy and the response uneven.
The Cause: The system probably has air in its hydraulic fluid.
The Fix: Most of these systems allow air to be bled out from a fitting at the ram (near the rudders). Following manufacturer's recommendations, crack the bleed screw and have someone cycle the steering system back and forth to purge the air. Afterward, it will be necessary to top off the oil in the reservoir.
The Problem: The windlass pops its circuit breaker after a lengthy anchor retrieve.
The Cause: An overload, probably the result of bad connections.
The Fix: As with most marine electrical problems, start with the connectors, especially the ones up at the windlass. Remove and clean these, then spray them with CRC's Marine Electronics Grease. It's also possible that the windlass is fed with a marginal piece of cable. Because of the length of the run and the current drawn by a windlass, these cables need to be of surprisingly heavy gauge.
The Problem: The varnish on your teak trim is cracked in the corners and other places where there are joints in the wood.
The Cause: Varnish adhesion on teak is a touchy proposition.
The Fix: Your boat's wood trim moves a bit as the boat works and flexes. Since varnish isn't flexible, it will crack at the joints. Getting varnish to adhere to teak is all about surface preparation. Sand any cracked areas thoroughly, or remove the old varnish completely. Wipe clean with a tack rag soaked in acetone before applying the new varnish in thin coats. By the way, the answer isn't numerous coats.
