The typical rode is made from three-strand nylon line that has an eye splice around a galvanized steel thimble at one end. The chain, with a link diameter of half the rope's diameter, is attached to the thimble with a galvanized shackle one size larger than the chain. The anchor is attached to the chain with a swivel one size larger than the chain. The shackle's and swivel's threaded pins should be coated with grease to keep them from seizing. Use Monel or stainless-steel wire to keep the pin from unscrewing.
|Up to 25'||160' (3/8")||10' (1/4")|
|Up to 35'||240' (1/2")||15' (1/4")|
|Up to 45'||300' (5/8")||20' (5/16")|
|Up to 55'||380' (3/4")||20' (3/8")|
|(for average boat, 7:1 scope)|
ROPE-TO-CHAIN SPLICE: Most windlasses won't accept rodes with a bulky thimble and shackle. The connection between rope and chain must be smooth and seamless. Tape the line 1'6" from the end. Unlay the rope and tape the end of each strand. Pass two strands through the last link of the chain from left to right. Slip a 1" length of heat-shrink tubing (to reduce chafing) over the two strands and slide it halfway through the link. Pass the remaining strand through the heat-shrink tubing from right to left. Snug up the strands against the link and apply heat to the tubing. From here on, follow the instructions for making an eye splice. DOCK LINES
|EYE: The eye (at one end only) should be at least 1' long when stretched out. Don't include the eye when measuring line length.||NUMBER: The minimum is two bow/stern lines and two spring lines. Two extra spring lines would be helpful and can be joined for emergency towing.||LENGTH: Bow and stern lines should be 2?3 of your boat's length; spring lines equal 11?2 times the boat's length. Add 1'6" for the eye splice before you cut.||DIAMETER: Use the above Anchor Rodes chart as your guide. Heavy boats, or ones with great windage, move up to the next larger line.||MATERIAL: As with anchor rodes, three-strand nylon has the greatest stretch for shock absorption and is easy to splice.|