My plan all along was to take a run, on foot, around the island. It started off the dock, with a vertical assault of 200 rusty ladder steps that could be right out of an old Sea Hunt episode. For all I know, they actually were. Aside from a water tower (disguised as a church to keep hooligans from shooting it), a lighthouse and a couple of ranger buildings, there’s precious little man-made on the island, save a 1.5- mile figure-eight loop trail. What the island lacks in length is more than made up for in charm. On the windward side, the relentless breeze tousled and cooled, but the leeward side was still and warm, and a quick look down revealed clear green coves, lush kelp forests and a few fat pinnipeds.