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Rebuilding Water Pumps

Overhaul your water pumps and help your powertrain keep its cool.
By Jim Hendricks
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A properly functioning cooling system is critical to marine powertrain reliability. Water pumps serve as the heart of the system. Some sterndrives have a lower-unit pickup pump in the drive (same as an outboard), and others have an inboard raw-water intake pump, either belt-driven or direct drive (same as most inboards).

Rebuilding Water Pumps

Rebuilding water pumps once a year or every 100 hours is the best way to ensure these pumps are working at full capacity. Check with your marine dealer for the specific rebuild kits you’ll need for your particular model of engine and lower unit.

Rebuilding Water Pumps

Raw-Water Intake Pump

1. Removing the Raw-Water Intake Pump
After draining the cooling water, loosen the hose clamps and remove the inlet and outlet hoses. Loosen the drive-belt tension and remove the belt. Remove the mounting bolts and remove the pump from the engine.

Rebuilding Water Pumps

2. Removing the Impeller
Mark the alignment of the mounting bracket, bearing and shaft housing. Note the location of each bolt, washer and nut, and remove them. Pull the pump body from the shaft and bearing housing. Remove and discard the old impeller and wear plate, as well as old gaskets, O-rings, seals and impeller key, based on new items provided in the rebuild kit.

Rebuilding Water Pumps

3. Installing the Impeller
Install the new wear plate, gaskets, O-rings, seals, impeller key and impeller, applying a light coat of grease to each. While turning the pump shaft clockwise, push the pump housing to seat the vanes. Rotate the pump body to align the marks, and install the mounting bolts, washers and nuts. Reinstall the pump.

Rebuilding Water Pumps

Lower-Unit Pickup Pump

1. Removing the Lower Unit
You will need to shift into either forward or reverse in order to demount the lower unit, depending upon the model and rotation of the drive, so check the manual. Remove the propeller, the prop hardware and the bolts holding the lower unit to the midsection, including the one hidden under the trim tab/anode. Also, disconnect the speedometer tube. Carefully pull on the lower unit and drive shaft from the midsection. Depending on the model, the shift shaft may be attached to the lower unit. For a step-by-step guide, go to boatingmag.com/maintenance/diy-projects/replacing-stern-drive-bellows.

Rebuilding Water Pumps

2. Removing the Impeller
Remove the water pump housing bolts, and pull off the housing, impeller and wear plate, sliding them up and off the drive shaft. Discard gaskets, O-rings, seals, housing liner and the impeller key based on new parts in the rebuild kit. Check the drive shaft for wear where the seals ride, and if worn consider replacement.

Rebuilding Water Pumps

3. Installing the Impeller
Grease and install the new parts from the rebuild kit. Grease and slide the impeller down the drive shaft, aligning it with the key and seating it against the wear plate. Slide the pump housing down the shaft. While turning the shaft clockwise, push the housing over the impeller, securing it with the housing bolts (brush threads with anti-seize compound). Reinstall the lower unit.

Quick Tip
An inboard or sterndrive may also have a belt- or shaft-driven water circulating pump on the front of the engine, and this is usually replaced with new or rebuilt units when it wears out. Pump prices range from $74.95 to $209.95. Two companies offering such pumps include Doug Russell Marine (dougrussell.com) and Michigan Motorz (michiganmotorz.com).

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Great Tip, Myles. Thanks, mate.

Kevin Falvey

Another secret to installing these pumps is to use zipties around the middle pull it snug and kind of position the vanes in the direction they are to turn, now while holding the vanes again tighten the zip tie so they stay in the direction they are to turn, keep doing this till they are all done, now when you go to put the impeller into the body, grease the inside with good grease and coat the vanes with dish soap,now turn the impeller while guiding the vanes into the body, line up the keyway, and it should slide right in and when it goes in as far as the zipties, hold the vanes ,slide the zipties off and push the impeller all the way into the body, then coat the end with grease, clean off the dishsoap, install the new gasket,and the back plate, then spin the pump in the direction it supposed to turn, reinstall pump and hoses,and belts, start engine ,check for leaks, and water temp on engine, and then you are good to go.I know all this because I just finished installing two of them on a B3 mercrusier, the one pumps impeller had no vanes left, got lucky that a big chunk of vane stopped the rest of the garbage from flowing into the block, hope this info helps people good luck cheers :-)

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