You can micro-tune a drift as well. Use a wider zoom level because the boat will be moving and you'll want to keep the structure on the screen as you head for it. A 1/2-mile zoom should work fine. Again, pick the wreck, reef, or temperature break you want to fish, and place the cursor on it. Next, proceed upwind, upcurrent, or a combination of both that you think will put you on a direct drift back to the cursor. When you get far enough off, shut down, mark where you are with an icon, and drift. Check to make sure the boat's icon and cursor are still on the screen. If not, zoom out to the next level. As you drift, watch the bearing readout on your display. It should be the same as, or within a few degrees of, the bearing to the cursor. As a guide to how far off you can be, remember that a six-degree difference over 2,000 feet (1/3 nautical mile) will put you off the mark by 200 feet. If you see that you're going to miss the wreck, start the engines and bump them in gear to get you back on a track where the two readouts match up or are close enough to do the job. Also check the Speed Over the Ground (SOG) readout to see how fast you're drifting. If it's too fast, you can slow down by using a sea anchor, dragging a bucket, or in windy conditions dropping your canvas. Too slow, crank up the engines.